2002 evinrude 255 problem - The Hull Truth

mako20 · 04-30-2007, 11:37 PM

Hi I am having trouble with my engine after winter layup. It seems that the top cylinder on starboard side is not sparking at all and the bottom cylinder on starboard side is weak. All others seem fine and you can feel the temp of cylinders that are firing and those that are not. The motor ran fine when put away for the winter. Is there anything common to only these two cylinders?? Any help woud be appreciated here
Thanks Mike

A1 Outboard · 05-01-2007, 09:00 AM

What do you mean by "weak" spark on on the bottom cylinder, #5? Are you using a spark checker set to a 7/16" gap?
Are those two plugs wet and oily, or have more carbon buildup than the other 4 plugs?

Take a compression check of all the cylinders and post the results here.

Mr. Bee

mako20 · 05-07-2007, 12:30 AM

Thanks for the reply. I know I didnt give you much info. Anyway I did check the compression and it was 130 even across all six (that was a relief) I dont have a good spark tester like in the manual but I did check with one that I could adjust to 7/16 and there seemed to be a spark occasionally but not regular. I did resistance check on primary and secondary windings of the coils and that was within spec. I was not able to check the voltage to the primary. Is there a way to get a test lead into connector on emm. I didnt want to force anything and loose the integrity of seal on connector. Once again it looks like problem on 1 and 5 and any help is appreciated
Mike

A1 Outboard · 05-08-2007, 12:38 AM

The factory makes special back probes that fit into the waterproof connections. Don't try piercing the wire, using safety pins, or any other unapproved methods.

To test the ignition system you need a laptop, books, and the proper diagnostic software. A coil can still be bad and have the correct resistance readings. Plugs wires and end caps can be suspect also.

Just so you know, the EMM does not send a signal out to the coils to make them spark. They have voltage going to them all the time and the EMM just completes the ground circuit to make them "fire".

You can try swapping coils and plug wires to see if the condition continues.

mako20 · 05-08-2007, 08:32 AM

once again thanks for the reply Do you guys sell the diagnostic software and if so how much??

A1 Outboard · 05-08-2007, 08:53 AM

See an authorized dealer or go online to http://bluewaterboat.com/software_ficht_etec.htm

mako20 · 05-19-2007, 06:18 PM

Well I ordered diagnostics kit but it hasnt arrived yet. Anyway in the meantime my manual states that the primary voltage for ignition coils does come from EMM. I went and checked these voltges at j2 on EMM while engine was running at approximately 1000 rpm. The signals looked consistant on all primaries. 250v signal was present as observed on oscilloscope. There were groups of 10 short duration pulses which seemed fine and consistant on all cylinders. When I removed the sparkplugs once again 1 and 5 were just wet with no carbon like the others. I checked sparked plugs and wires all looked fine. Did statIic resistance test on coil windings and they were within spec. Is it possible that timing is incorrect for primary voltage of just thise two cylinders. I am stumped any advise would be appreciated. Will the diagnostic software be able to give me more info than I have gotten. I cant see anything tahat is common to only these cylinders
Thanks again
Mike

A1 Outboard · 05-19-2007, 07:53 PM

The diagnostic software will allow you to spark each coil at a time.

Did you check the resistance of each plug wire and cap?

mako20 · 05-19-2007, 09:50 PM

I did check the resistance of the plug wires cap to cap . I am sure I remember correctly but I think they were 500 ohms. I am not sure if that is exact number but they were all the same. Is it possible that I am getting to much fuel to those cylinders or is this not likely?? I wanted to check the high tension wires with an inductive timing light but havent gotten to yet is thiw worthwhile test??
Thanks again
Mike

A1 Outboard · 05-20-2007, 08:24 AM

Quote:

mako20 - 5/19/2007 5:18 PM
When I removed the sparkplugs once again 1 and 5 were just wet with no carbon like the others. I checked sparked plugs and wires all looked fine.

Check the manual and see if #1 and #5 cylinders are used as the crankcase pulses for either the fuel pump or the oil pump. If so, a leaky diaphragm may be allowing excess oil or fuel into those cylinders.

Also test for leaking injectors per the manual.

mako20 · 05-20-2007, 09:04 AM

per the manual looks like 3 and 6 are the pulse hose locations. I assume the injector test you are speaking of is the one where you pressurize to 30 lbs and make sure that the pressure holds for at least 5 mins. that test I cannot due right now because iwill have to get the input abd output fiitings. Is there a common pressure tester that I can pick up at car parts store to substitute for BRP tester or is there something special about it
Mike

mako20 · 05-20-2007, 10:50 PM

I swapped fuel injectors from 3 and 5. I will not leave them this was just for a test. The problem followed the injector ie now 5 fires but not three. Now I am beginning to suspect to much fuel on non firing cylinders. I checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve and according to my guage I had 60 lbs with pump motor running!!!!! This seems very high. I have two questions ! if fuel rail pressure is this high is it possible that two of the fuel injectors could leak extra fuel while the others dont thus causing my problem 2 I am planning on checking pressure regulator fuel return manifold for any restriction anything else??
Thank you

A1 Outboard · 05-21-2007, 08:31 PM

Your fuel pressure is too high, unless you have an inaccurate gauge. Check with another gauge or two as the pressure should be around 25 psi. If it still is too high, there is a problem with the pressure regulator inside the fuel cannister. You would then need to buy the assembly.

IF the pressure bleeds down to about 10 psi when the key is turned OFF, then you may have an internally leaking fuel injector. If it goes to 0 psi, the regulator is bad.

Contact www.dfitechnologies.com for rebuilding your injector(s).

mako20 · 05-22-2007, 12:23 AM

My first reaction was to question the guage also. I tested it on my trailer tire and it agreed with my tire pressure guage as they both said 45psi so it would seem it is accurate.I will double check the bleed down but I do believe it went to zero. I tryed pressurizing regulator from return fitting and it does pop but I was not sure at what pressure (I belive it should be somewhere 4-8 psi) Is the only way to service the pressure regulator as an entire unit containing pressure regulator vapor seperator and fuel pump or can I get these parts seperately. I have been in touch with dfitechnogies they seem like good people to work with. I just want to make sure what the problem is as these parts are way to expensive to just throw parts at the problem untill it is found
As always
thank you

A1 Outboard · 05-22-2007, 08:32 AM

You buy the assembly that includes the electric fuel pump, fuel cooler cannister, and the internal regulator.

mako20 · 05-29-2007, 10:10 PM

ok I replaced vapor seperator assembly. This solved my high fuel pressure problem which is now at 30lbs with electric pump running and drops to about 20 lbs when shut off and holds. These numbers are right about where the specs say they should be. My original problem was unaffected by theis however. I continued to troubleshoot and have detemined that I have two bad fuel injectors on cylinders 1 and 5. I dont believe I am getting any fuel out of them I have gone as far as moving the injectors aound on the starboard side and the problem always seems to follow injectors. I have also even swapped nossles from one to another and the problem stays with the actual pump pat of the injector assembly These parts were moved around for test only and all have been estored to origianal comnfiguration. Any ideas what the problem could be here, I am concerned thee might be some corrosion makiking it stick . I guess my only options are have rebuilt or buy new. Is DFi only rebuilders?? or is ther somrthing more local to Ct. Or do you have any other suggestions
Thank you
Mike

mako20 · 05-29-2007, 10:13 PM

Oh yes I forgot to say plugs are not reallt wet as previously stated that was just sheen left from tuner that I used to clean plugs for testing.

A1 Outboard · 05-30-2007, 01:34 AM

Send the injectors to DFI

mako20 · 06-01-2007, 10:53 PM

ok two injectors off to DFI. While I am waiting I sure would like to fix annoying leak which runs down engine. It seems to be mostly oil but is darker color. I see that there is some coming from shaft that controls throttle plates. It always seems to have a drop ready to go. There is another source but havnt located it yet. Is there any fix for this or do I have to live with it.
Thanks mIKE

A1 Outboard · 06-01-2007, 11:52 PM

The oil is normally the blow back mist that collects on the throttle plates and drips down the vertical shafts onto the motor pans. Due to a design change in '02, it drips less than the earlier models which would make a big mess in the transom well.